I finally arrived in Lothersdale, via train - along the same Airedale line that runs to Skipton- I had travelled to Connonley and subsequent taxi, at 11am. The taxi firm, had recent relocated to an old mill right opposite the train station and its accompanying level crossing - the worst possible location for such a business as the level crossing spends 40 minutes of every hour closed. Back on the trail, it was up the hill with sunshine and ducks towards Thornton in Craven.
However clouds were soon stalking me as I made my way up over the hill and down the other side, so it was on with the waterproofs.
However the rain was intermittent and soon stopped which was a relief as I was cooking with the waterproofs on. There were a good few cows around, as always, keeping a keen interest in my progress down the hill.
Passing under one of the remaining bits of the old railway line, that used to connect Clitheroe to Skipton, it was past some horses and through Thornton in Craven a small but perfectly lovely village.
From here the route takes you up a lane to a farm, with more lambs and then across a couple of fields up to the Leeds Liverpool canal, which is well hidden in the line of the hills at this point, I hadn't realised I'd reached it until I climbed the top of the banking.
Enjoying the timeless industrial feel of the canal (It was our second meeting of the day, I had passed over it on the train into Leeds earlier) which seems at home in its country setting, I headed to East Marton which boasted another pub symbol and hopefully this one would not have been converted to some alternative usage.
I wasn't disappointed this time, this was a very rustic-looking tea-rooms aimed at the higher end of the market, feeling suitably scruffy in my mud-splattered combats. I enjoyed a £5 toastie!!!
Back on the road, this was the point where The Pennine Way headed in a straight line towards Gargrave, whereas the canal takes a more circuitous route along the hill line to cross paths once more. I decided the raw beauty of the canal was worth the extra mile or two, as was meeting this rather stern-looking guardcat.
The rain returned again, but not heavily so which was good as the take-off-boots-put-on-waterproofs-put-boots-back-on-routine was a ball-ache. I was soon at the point where the canal, River Aire and rail line to Settle all meet each other.
I was kept entertained her by some impressive low-level flying from the local gulls before reaching Gargrave for another cold, refreshing drink as it would probably be the last opportunity between here and Settle.
Back on The Pennine way again, a long leafy track took me away from Gargrave and the canal and into the hills towards Airton.
Leaving the trees and emerging into some deliciously green fields saw a very welcome return of the sunshine for the final leg of the days walking.
This particular field had been freshly sprayed with manure, I had seen the vehicle finishing the job as I had approached, so I employed a bit of improvisation in order to cross it in comfort.
Back in clean fresh air, I had the River Aire for company once more for a while before leaving the fields and the Pennine Way for a tiny country road to Airton which gives its name to the river.
Airton, originally a Quaker village which gets a mention in the Domesday Book is pretty much a collection of exceedingly nice looking cottages at a couple of cross-roads, having just negotiated two miles of a fairly busy road with no foot-path I was concerned if the road to Settle was simlar, I stood a decent chance of becoming road-kill.
I consulted with one of the locals who was tending his lawn and he didn't think it would be wise to try and walk from here to Settle, so I did the sensible thing and rang for a cab to come and fetch me from Settle. At this stage, I had covered 15 miles in six hours (including two stops) and taken the total disctance covered to 76 miles in 33 hours and my disappointment at having had to cut this final part of the route was offset by the arrival of Leeds train within a few minutes, getting me to Leeds 10 minutes before the next Stalybridge train getting me home in less than 2 hours. Happy days.
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