Day four 14/6/08 Lothersdale to Settle

I finally arrived in Lothersdale, via train - along the same Airedale line that runs to Skipton- I had travelled to Connonley and subsequent taxi, at 11am. The taxi firm, had recent relocated to an old mill right opposite the train station and its accompanying level crossing - the worst possible location for such a business as the level crossing spends 40 minutes of every hour closed. Back on the trail, it was up the hill with sunshine and ducks towards Thornton in Craven.

However clouds were soon stalking me as I made my way up over the hill and down the other side, so it was on with the waterproofs.

However the rain was intermittent and soon stopped which was a relief as I was cooking with the waterproofs on. There were a good few cows around, as always, keeping a keen interest in my progress down the hill.

Passing under one of the remaining bits of the old railway line, that used to connect Clitheroe to Skipton, it was past some horses and through Thornton in Craven a small but perfectly lovely village.

From here the route takes you up a lane to a farm, with more lambs and then across a couple of fields up to the Leeds Liverpool canal, which is well hidden in the line of the hills at this point, I hadn't realised I'd reached it until I climbed the top of the banking.




Enjoying the timeless industrial feel of the canal (It was our second meeting of the day, I had passed over it on the train into Leeds earlier) which seems at home in its country setting, I headed to East Marton which boasted another pub symbol and hopefully this one would not have been converted to some alternative usage.





I wasn't disappointed this time, this was a very rustic-looking tea-rooms aimed at the higher end of the market, feeling suitably scruffy in my mud-splattered combats. I enjoyed a £5 toastie!!!


Back on the road, this was the point where The Pennine Way headed in a straight line towards Gargrave, whereas the canal takes a more circuitous route along the hill line to cross paths once more. I decided the raw beauty of the canal was worth the extra mile or two, as was meeting this rather stern-looking guardcat.



The rain returned again, but not heavily so which was good as the take-off-boots-put-on-waterproofs-put-boots-back-on-routine was a ball-ache. I was soon at the point where the canal, River Aire and rail line to Settle all meet each other.




I was kept entertained her by some impressive low-level flying from the local gulls before reaching Gargrave for another cold, refreshing drink as it would probably be the last opportunity between here and Settle.



Back on The Pennine way again, a long leafy track took me away from Gargrave and the canal and into the hills towards Airton.
Leaving the trees and emerging into some deliciously green fields saw a very welcome return of the sunshine for the final leg of the days walking.


This particular field had been freshly sprayed with manure, I had seen the vehicle finishing the job as I had approached, so I employed a bit of improvisation in order to cross it in comfort.


Back in clean fresh air, I had the River Aire for company once more for a while before leaving the fields and the Pennine Way for a tiny country road to Airton which gives its name to the river.

Airton, originally a Quaker village which gets a mention in the Domesday Book is pretty much a collection of exceedingly nice looking cottages at a couple of cross-roads, having just negotiated two miles of a fairly busy road with no foot-path I was concerned if the road to Settle was simlar, I stood a decent chance of becoming road-kill.

I consulted with one of the locals who was tending his lawn and he didn't think it would be wise to try and walk from here to Settle, so I did the sensible thing and rang for a cab to come and fetch me from Settle. At this stage, I had covered 15 miles in six hours (including two stops) and taken the total disctance covered to 76 miles in 33 hours and my disappointment at having had to cut this final part of the route was offset by the arrival of Leeds train within a few minutes, getting me to Leeds 10 minutes before the next Stalybridge train getting me home in less than 2 hours. Happy days.

Day three 7/6/08 Hebden Bridge to Lothersdale

Arriving at Hebden Bridge at 10am, I was feeling remarkably good considering I'd got to bed at 3am. However, 5 hours sleep, quick shower two paracetamol and a rapid rail trip down the picturesque Calder Valley line had me ready to take on the days efforts.

Rather than backtrack 3 miles down the bland A646, I had decided to follow Hebden Water (on the right hand side of the map) north to one of its three main sources at Walshaw and rejoin The Pennine Way after about 9 miles.



Leaving the the train Station, you cross the River Calder to get into the town which is basically a point where two valleys meet in a T-shape. The river was beautifully reflecting the light at this time.

The walk along the riverside was lovely, lots of nice flat paths following the river as it meanders through a lovely wooded valley. On occasions the route would take you higher above the river to leave stretches of riverbank for the wild-life to nest and be generally be un-mithered. I also came across this old-school working men's club with benches next to the riverside and a fishing area - I reckon this would be great for long lazy boozy afternoons.


I came across a couple of curiosities, the first being this log with loads of 2p coins stuck in it. Having since done a bit of googling, I believe that the idea is you should make a wish when you stick the coin in.



For some reason, this crossing of the river reminded of Takeshi's Castle.


This was the second curiosity, answers on a postcard, please.


Further upriver, the valley steepens until one riverbank gives way to sheer cliff.

Eventually the path leads up the side of the hill, high above the river and out the woods as the terrain switches coarser grassier pastures.



The animal-lovers will be pleased to know that we were now into lamb territory,


Before long I was back on the Pennine Way and the open moors beckoned.



After last weeks Reservoir-fest, there were only three today, here's me looking skywards at the first.

The lower Reservoir looked quite empty but I across this extremely tame lamb, that even obligingly turned its head for the camera when I clicked my tongue.




The higher Reservoir looked much prettier and fuller, back in 1995 the water supply here failed completely during the drought and they had to transport water in tanker trucks up the M62.



I then had the first major uphill ascent of the day, which was a nice gentle slope with fantastic views of the gradually shrinking water behind me and hills beyond.



I was now on Withins Height, which I had not yet realised the significance of, but I soon would.


This immediately put me in mind of the Kate Bush song of the same name, which is significant to me in that it is the first piece of music I can remember from early childhood and it always makes the hairs stand up on the back my neck.

This is pretty much what was in my head as I powered on cheerfully across the moors.







It was then a steep descent down to Ponden Reservoir, past some horses en route.



This was the part of the Pennine Way when it decides to give you a real work out by sending the walker up the hill ....

and then back down again, but past some donkeys, so you're rewarded for the effort.

These two pictures were from the killer hill of the day looking back down, my motivation was the pub indicated on the map at other side - 6 miles away - which I knew would be awaiting my arrival with a huge sandwich and ice-cold drink.


Having reached the top and being drenched in sweat, it was nice to be on the tops with gently rolling moorland again.

The moors once more gave way to grassy pasture and a long meandering descent to the village of Cowling and my pub. I stopped on a wall to have a quick cig and admire the view and these cows decided to have a game of granny's footsteps with me. When they realised I had turned round and had clocked them, they went back to docilely chewing grass.


I continued along the line of the hills past a waterfall, some chickens and ducks.



Until finally, at last - my "pub"

Passing some more ducks in the back of someones impressive back garden, I headed to the village - and - despite their threats I did leave once I had negotiated the purchase of some pasties and a nice cold can of coke from a store-keeper.


On leaving Cowling, I passed rasta-sheep - most definatley the coolest looking character in the area.


At this point it was twenty miles gone in 7 hours and I reckoned I had enough in the tank for one more hill and four miles to the next villlge of Lothersdale.


At this point the plan was to get a taxi to Skipton and then the train home and I had planned ahead and got a number for a taxi company in Lothersdale. When I rang it seemed there may be one more sting in the tail as the "firm" was one man who finished for the day as he had an early start on Sunday morning.


Thankfully he gave me the number of another nearby firm, who could pick me up in half an hour - giving me the chance for that ice-cold drink at last before heading home at the end of the best day so far.
Total walking time for the day was 9 hours, with 24 miles covered - very pleased with the end result and I was feeling nowhere near as fatigued as I had at the end of the previous two days.